Calligraphy Brush Pastry (毛笔酥)
Máobǐsū · say it: “maow-bee-soo”
- Spice
- Not spicy
- Typical price
- ¥45–55
- Dietary
- VegetarianContains gluten
Half dish, half parlour trick: 毛笔酥 (máobǐsū) is a flaky pastry sculpted to look like a Chinese calligraphy brush, served as a "Four Treasures of the Study" plate with a dish of dark sour-plum sauce (酸梅酱) standing in for ink. You "write" by dipping the brush-tip, then bite it — crisp pastry, sweet-sour fruit. It is the signature piece of Xi'an's Tang-themed dining wave, created by pastry master Jing Yanping (a 2012 national gold medal) and popularised by the Chang'an Da Pai Dang chain.
Be honest about what it is: the appeal is partly the visual gag — a brush you can eat, perfect for the phone — and partly a genuinely decent sweet-sour pastry. Order it once, for the story and the photo, alongside a real Shaanxi centerpiece like gourd chicken. It is not the dish you'd cross town for on flavour alone.
How to eat it
It arrives as a set: a row of "brushes" plus the ink dish. Dip the tip in the sour-plum sauce and eat it in a bite or two while the pastry is still crisp — it softens fast. It's a shared novelty order (one plate for the table), not a course; build the meal around biangbiang noodles or gourd chicken and let this be the flourish.
The pastry is wheat-based and sweet (vegetarian, not halal-certified). At Chang'an Da Pai Dang expect a wait — the chain's Tang-theatre rooms fill within minutes of opening, so book ahead or arrive before the lunch rush. More on the food hub.
Where to try it
Chang'an Da Pai Dang (长安大牌档)
The chain that made it famous — Tang-themed Shaanxi dining with live performances. Xi'an branches include the Saige flagship (a Shaanxi History Museum cultural-restaurant collab), Joy City near the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Gaoxin Daduhui and the Nandajie lantern-themed branch. The brush pastry is the must-order photo dish; book ahead, the queues are real.
Other Tang-themed Shaanxi banquet rooms
Imitators have followed; if a Tang-decor restaurant lists 毛笔酥 it's usually the same idea. Chang'an Da Pai Dang is the original and the safest pick.