VISITXIAN

Calligraphy Brush Pastry (毛笔酥)

Máobǐsū · say it:maow-bee-soo

Spice
Not spicy
Typical price
¥4555
Dietary
VegetarianContains gluten

Half dish, half parlour trick: 毛笔酥 (máobǐsū) is a flaky pastry sculpted to look like a Chinese calligraphy brush, served as a "Four Treasures of the Study" plate with a dish of dark sour-plum sauce (酸梅酱) standing in for ink. You "write" by dipping the brush-tip, then bite it — crisp pastry, sweet-sour fruit. It is the signature piece of Xi'an's Tang-themed dining wave, created by pastry master Jing Yanping (a 2012 national gold medal) and popularised by the Chang'an Da Pai Dang chain.

Be honest about what it is: the appeal is partly the visual gag — a brush you can eat, perfect for the phone — and partly a genuinely decent sweet-sour pastry. Order it once, for the story and the photo, alongside a real Shaanxi centerpiece like gourd chicken. It is not the dish you'd cross town for on flavour alone.

01

How to eat it

It arrives as a set: a row of "brushes" plus the ink dish. Dip the tip in the sour-plum sauce and eat it in a bite or two while the pastry is still crisp — it softens fast. It's a shared novelty order (one plate for the table), not a course; build the meal around biangbiang noodles or gourd chicken and let this be the flourish.

The pastry is wheat-based and sweet (vegetarian, not halal-certified). At Chang'an Da Pai Dang expect a wait — the chain's Tang-theatre rooms fill within minutes of opening, so book ahead or arrive before the lunch rush. More on the food hub.

02

Where to try it

  • Chang'an Da Pai Dang (长安大牌档)

    The chain that made it famous — Tang-themed Shaanxi dining with live performances. Xi'an branches include the Saige flagship (a Shaanxi History Museum cultural-restaurant collab), Joy City near the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Gaoxin Daduhui and the Nandajie lantern-themed branch. The brush pastry is the must-order photo dish; book ahead, the queues are real.

  • Other Tang-themed Shaanxi banquet rooms

    Imitators have followed; if a Tang-decor restaurant lists 毛笔酥 it's usually the same idea. Chang'an Da Pai Dang is the original and the safest pick.